指

Climber/Bouldering/Mountaineering/Breakdown/Injury Detailed Explanation

A bouldering manipulative clinic provides optimal treatments for various climbing injuries and individual advice for self-care

my finger hurts
Chronic pain/tenosynovitis

finger

Painful fingers, joint pain in the fingers, chronic pain in the fingers, unable to bend the fingers, pain when bending the fingers, pain when extending the fingers, pain when twisting the fingers, inability to stretch the fingers, swelling of the fingers, pressing the fingers It hurts, it hurts when you hold it...

The most common bouldering

finger injury

Unfortunately finger experts

Currently there are very few

Bouldering manipulative clinics have a track record of acute injuries and chronic pain specific to climbers. So far, we have responded to the concerns of thousands of climbers. We also provide support when there is a problem with the range of motion, such as the inability to freely bend and extend fingers.

指の故障

「痛い所」と「原因になる所」が離れています

→　間違ったケアになって失敗しやすいのです

アンカー 1

Many of the pains of chronic inflammation in the fingers

It is not an injury.

Chronic finger pain is often

Caused by long-term accumulation of fatigue

joints, tendons, tendon sheaths, ligaments, etc.

Pain caused by inflammation

The symptoms are aggravated by stiffness of surrounding muscles such as palms / forearms / around the shoulder blades / pectoral muscles / back, waist, abdominal muscles, etc. That's right, the main cause is muscle stiffness related to the fingers.

Root cause of finger painThink it’s on your finger?

That’s different. The root cause of most chronic finger pain lies outside the finger. Palm /Forearm / shoulder blade area / pectoral muscle / back, waist, abdominal muscles… and so on are caused by the stiffness of the surrounding muscles.

Even though the cause is something other than your finger

Will tape fix it?

Since it is caused by muscle stiffness, it is often the case that good results cannot be obtained by fixing with tape. In some cases, the fixation worsens the blood flow, resulting in a vicious circle.

In addition, I have seen many cases where the pain is temporarily masked by hardening it with tape, but instead it gets worse due to excessive climbing.

however, It hurts when you twist my finger. It hurts when you twist your finger, there is also a case. In such cases, the pain may be the result of repeated sprains of the DIP and PIP joints due to repeated same loads.

In this case, the cause is an "injury" due to the impact of the climbing motion. In this case, fixing with tape, etc. is effective.

depending on your failure type

The "right way to heal" will change

However, many people have a mix of symptoms. The foresight is the most important point. Once you have correctly identified the type of symptoms, let's deal with it carefully.

Do not massage your fingers unnecessarily

Many of the causes are in "other than fingers

A finger injury will not be improved by approaching the finger alone. On the contrary, strong finger massage often exacerbates inflammation (there are exceptions, but strong massage requires sufficient experience and knowledge).

About finger roller

Finger Roller. It is not recommended to use such as A finger roller is better than nothing,Care with your hands is much easier and more effectiveThat's why.

Finger rollers cannot move as delicately as human fingertips. In addition, it is difficult to fine-tune the pressure applied to the subcutaneous tissue, and the effect is halved.

Self-care using your hands is the most detailed care possible. Once you get the hang of it, you won't get tired.

Specific methods of self-care using hands are Videos page of this site (click to jump)is explained.

About the massage gun

When it comes to care for arms, hands and fingers,massage gun is not particularly necessary, so we do not recommend it.

This is because the continuous strong blow stimulation of the massage gun has the side effect of making the muscles tense and strengthening the kickiness.

The place is forcibly loosened, so there is a feeling that it has improved. However, in the long term, it will become a muscle that is difficult to improve.

In this case also It's much easier, safer and more effective to take care of your muscles with your hands. The human hand is delicate enough to identify and care for each tendon.

Also, you can apply as much pressure as you need where you need it, so side effects can be minimized.

Some people say, Doing it with your own hands is tiring, but if you do it the right way, you can quickly and effectively care for your fingers without getting tired at all.

hands-on self-careconcreteThe method is on this site-movie page (click & jump) and I am explaining.

Care with equipment

Easier and more effective than manual care

our practitioners

We'll quit manual therapy

But the reason I don't do it is that manual treatments are much more effective.

Of course, there are countless know-how and tricks for hand care. If you rub it blindly without knowing it, you will only get tired, and not only will it not improve, but it will even worsen.

Therefore, For our patients, we give lectures each time they visit us about the state of their injuries, their physical characteristics, and the optimal self-care methods for their lifestyle habits.It is.

Forearm, upper arm, shoulder, chest, neck (neck)

It is most important to remove muscle stiffness

To improve the fingers, it is most important to remove the stiffness of the muscles in the forearms, shoulders, and neck (neck) that cause pain in the fingers. In addition, it is necessary to remove the stiffness of the surrounding muscles and reduce the fatigue of the entire muscles related to the fingers.

By doing so, the fatigue of joints, tendons, tendon sheaths, ligaments etc. becomes easier to escape. By carefully removing these fatigues, the inflammation that causes pain will be suppressed.

There is no magic for chronic finger pain

Needs some time to improve

Aside from mild chronic pain (in some cases, the pain may disappear after one or several visits), it is true that severe chronic pain takes time to improve even with the best possible measures.

And, of course, there are a few more conditions that need to be met in order to be good while climbing. Again, taking a break from climbing temporarily and focusing on care will help you improve faster.

However, the root cause of chronic pain is

Many people in their daily lives

However, although it may seem surprising, there are a great many people whose chronic pain is caused by their daily lives.

For those who suffer from finger pain

without exception

Tight shoulders, back and chest muscles

Tight muscles in the upper body, which are fascially connected to the fingers, impede finger movement, put pressure on the knuckles, and cause fatigue in the forearms.

There are many people who do not improve due to sleep deprivation, overwork, body stiffness, straight neck spine distortion, pelvic distortion, etc.

For those who have these symptoms, the physical impact of desk work etc. is contributing to climbing malfunction.

No matter how much I rub my finger, it won't heal. If you continue to condition the muscles of the entire upper body, the condition of your fingers will also change for the better.

If you have joint deformities

(Osteoarthritis of fingers)

You can't bend your fingers. In that case, there are cases where the joints (= bones) are deformed. but, Even those who When you take an X-ray, it turns out that there are actually more people who haven't had bone deformation.is.

If you are concerned about it, first get an X-ray from an orthopedic surgeon and find out if there is joint deformation, and then consider measures to improve it.

After taking an X-ray, if there is joint deformation (osteoarthritis of the fingers), care for several months to several yearsis necessary in some cases. Also, it can be difficult to cure.

Me too,Unable to bend/extend fingers

there was a time

I can't bend or straighten my fingers either.There was a time This is a story before I started this job (I studied the treatment, accumulated self-experiments, and now I am completely cured).

The current situation in the climbing world is that many people give up in cases like this. I can't help but break my fingers while climbing. When. However, it is too wasteful.

myself and my patients

Straight and Painless Fingers
is getting back

Certainly, if the symptoms progress to the point where the joint deforms significantly, it may not completely return to its original state. Also, it takes time to improve. However, many people, including myself and the patients at our hospital, have regained their straight, painless fingers.

However, a certain amount of effort is required. Of course, it won't heal if left alone, and in most cases, you won't even feel any improvement after a few weeks of rest.First of all, we continue to focus on reducing symptoms (reducing pain and improving range of motion).

The basic concept of care is the same for joint deformities. However, if the symptoms are severe, a relatively strong treatment is also used. In addition, we will proceed with treatments that focus on long-term changes rather than on-the-spot sensory changes.

Then, we will tell you the self-care method for you that you can do by yourself every day, and practice it every day. Fingers that have started to improve after receiving treatment will not return to the bad side again, so daily self-care will stop the deterioration.

Therefore, at a bouldering manipulative clinic, we will provide “coaching guidance for treatment + self-care”.

Only with the method of relying on the clinic

improving chronic paintoo good to waste

Just by relying on the treatment clinic, It's a waste to improve chronic pain. because,Because your whole life, including your climbing activities, has a cause.

what is the cause? What should I change for the better? Every time you visit us, we will suggest your daily activities and ask you to repeat them yourself. Based on the results, we make the following suggestions. I'm going to do a treatment while doing such an initiative.

but

Improving through self-care alone

It is true that it is very difficult

Some patients stop going to the hospital once their pain subsides. In the end, such patients do not recover completely, suffer from aftereffects and recurrence of injuries, and come back to the hospital several months later.

Without improving the root cause, they try to do something with self-care alone, and end up failing.

chronic finger painFatigue is at the root

Chronic pain in the fingers is rooted in the problem of general fatigue. Efforts to reduce fatigue in the long term are a shortcut. Both muscle care around the back and shoulders, which are difficult to self-care, and the optimal self-care method necessary at that time based on clinical experience are essential.

In particular, the muscles in the back, such as the shoulders, back, and hips, are areas that are difficult even for professionals to do by themselves. However, a climber's injury can beMost of them do not improve without taking care of the muscles on the back, such as the waist.

I want to heal while climbing!

Any climber thinks so. It's hard to keep doing sports and getting better. However, at the Bouldering Manipulative Clinic, under certain conditions,

Severe chronic pain: About once a week
Mild chronic pain: about twice a month
Prevention of recurrence after improvement: About once or twice a month
(Injury Pakiri: basically difficult to heal while climbing)

On the premise of going to the hospital for …, we also propose a “plan to improve while climbing” (*How to proceed will differ depending on the patient’s physical characteristics and symptoms).

There is no magic in improvement

There is no magic in improvement. This is because chronic pain, in particular, is a failure caused by lifestyle habits. It is difficult to improve while climbing if you go to the hospital once or twice a month (*Depending on how you approach it, it may be possible.)

A half-hearted response

Even if it gets better to some extent, it doesn't last

A half-hearted response will not last even if it improves to some extent. As soon as I stop going to the hospital, I will return and my efforts will be wasted.

In order to get stronger and enjoy climbing, sometimes you need to make an effort that is different from usual. Let's work together and make time for each other.

To improve while climbing

Strong self-care habits are essential

A thorough self-care habit is essential for improvement while climbing. A body that has become easier to improve through treatment, maintained until next visit Because there is a need. Continuing proper self-care every day is a premise is.